Research article - (2021)20, 438 - 447
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.52082/jssm.2021.438
Effects of Two vs. Four Weekly Campus Board Training Sessions on Bouldering Performance and Climbing-Specific Tests in Advanced and Elite Climbers
Nicolay Stien1,, Helene Pedersen1, Vegard A. Vereide1, Atle H. Saeterbakken1, Espen Hermans1, Jarle Kalland1, Brad J. Schoenfeld2, Vidar Andersen1
1Department of sport, food and natural sciences, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
2Department of Health Sciences, Lehman College, Bronx, New York, USA

Nicolay Stien
✉ Department of sport, food and natural sciences, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Sogndal, Norway
Email: Nicolay.stien@hvl.no
Received: 31-03-2021 -- Accepted: 18-05-2021
Published (online): 25-05-2021

ABSTRACT

This study examined the effects of two or four weekly campus board training sessions among highly accomplished lead climbers. Sixteen advanced-to-elite climbers were randomly allocated to two (TG2), or four weekly campus board training sessions (TG4), or a control group (CG). All groups continued their normal climbing routines. Pre- and post-intervention measures included bouldering performance, maximal isometric pull-up strength using a shallow rung and a large hold (jug), and maximal reach and moves to failure. Rate of force development (RFD; absolute and 100ms) was calculated in the rung condition. TG4 improved maximal force in the jug condition (effect size (ES) = 0.40, p = 0.043), and absolute RFD more than CG (ES = 2.92, p = 0.025), whereas TG2 improved bouldering performance (ES = 2.59, p = 0.016) and maximal moves to failure on the campus board more than CG (ES = 1.65, p = 0.008). No differences between the training groups were found (p = 0.107–1.000). When merging the training groups, the training improved strength in the rung condition (ES = 0.87, p = 0.002), bouldering performance (ES = 2.37, p = 0.006), maximal reach (ES = 1.66, p = 0.006) and moves to failure (ES = 1.43, p = 0.040) more than CG. In conclusion, a five-week campus board training-block is sufficient for improving climbing-specific attributes among advanced-to-elite climbers. Sessions should be divided over four days to improve RFD or divided over two days to improve bouldering performance, compared to regular climbing training.

Key words: Isometric, pull-up, rate of force development, strength

Key Points
  • Five weeks of volume equated campus board training may similarly improve finger strength, maximal reach and number of campus moves to failure regardless of training frequency.
  • Four weekly sessions may be more effective than two weekly sessions for improving rate of force development in an isometric pull-up using a climbing-specific hold
  • Two weekly sessions could be more effective than four weekly sessions for improving bouldering performance when volume is equated.








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